Crater Lake Special Events Log

The Smith Brothers' Chronological History of Crater Lake National Park

The 1860's

1862

October 21, 1862

Chauncey Nye and party of prospectors,unaware of the previous Lake discovery, accidentally stumble upon the Lake and name it "Blue Lake". They were heading for Jacksonville, coming from Eastern Oregon gold fields of John Day.

November 8, 1862

The first published article about Blue Lake (Crater Lake) appears in the Semi-Weekly, Oregon Sentinel, publised at Jacksonville, on Saturday evening. HEAD WATERS OF ROGUE RIVER, BLUE LAKE: On the afternoon of the 21st day of October late, a small party of us were wending our way up the Cascade range of mountains, about fifteen miles south of Diamond Peak, leaving behind us the Black Pine Desert of the Klamath Lake country, and anxious to reach the summit in time to obtain a view of the promised land--vis: Rogue Valley. Reaching the summit aimed at, one of the highestpoints of the range, our course was changed by an unlooked for obstacle, and one that even a John Day party were obligated to go around. Before us, and at our feet, lay a large lake, encircled on all sides by steep and almost perpendicular bluff banks, fully as high as that we were standing upon. The circumference of this land we could not estimate at less than twenty-five miles, and from the banks down to the water, not less than three thousand feet. At no place could we see the remotest chance of being able to climb down to the water, without the aid of long ropes and rope ladders. Near the south end of the lake high, and drifts of snow lay clinging to the crevices of the rocky banks. The water was of a deep blue color, causing us to name it Blue Lake. It lays about one mile west of Mt.Scott; fifteen miles south of Diamond Peak, and eighty miles northeast from Jacksonville. In the distance, and situated in the low pass that connects the Klamath country with headwaters of the Rogue River, another lake was visible, not as large, apparently, and accessible, bordering as it does on the large prarie. From the banks of Blue Lake no outlet is visible, but on descending the west side of the mountain, which is densely covered with heavy hemlock timber, we found water gushing out, and fine grass on what we called the water level of the Lake, and following this level around the west and south sides, springs and small streams were crossed every few yards. The waters of which joined together in the large basin or valley below form an important feeder to the North Fork of the Rogue River, in fact empty into it a volume of water equal in amount to one quarter of the whole river at Table Rock Ferrry.

UNION PEAK Five miles south to Blue Lake, on a spur of the Cascades, stands a high rocky peak, which we ascended to lay out our route down the almost unknown regions of the head waters of the river. Reach in a summit in this peak, after an hour of hard climbing up those loose, rocky sides, with many of a pause, when the wind blew the hardest, in ordered not to be blown off into the canyon below, we found ourselves standing on a space about ten feet by six, walled around carefully with loose rock to the height of three or four feet, evidently the work in Indians in olden time. Below us, to the northwest, lay the large basin in which are collected the waters of the North Fork, and beyond the Cascades we looked down upon the waters of the Klamath Lakes, the deserts and praries that we had so slowly toiled over last spring; Shasta Butte in full view to its base; Mt. McLaughlin, seemingly, almost within reach; and down the river, dense forest covering the innumerable mountains and hills that formed the west side of the Cascades. Beyond, in the southwest, lay in the Main valley, with Jacksonville snugly stowed away in the far corner, and all the view in this direction backed by the Siskiyou range, running either way as far as the eye could reach. Christening our standing place, Union Peak, we scrambled down, mounted our animals and took our course for the lorks (sic). Union Peak can be seen from our town any clear day. ROAD by cutting a trail from the forks to Blue Lake Basin, up the value to the North Fork, a distance of twenty miles, the road is open, and good, from Jacksonville to the head waters of the Des Chutes, on the old Dalles Trail, the distance will not exceed one hundered miles to the point, by the spring trail, was 175 miles - avoiding, also, almost the whole of the Klamath desert of black pine and pumice stone; with grass and water abundant, and not mountain to climb. By this route, a wagon road can be cut through on to the Des Chutes, and by anyone who is it acquainted with the country, at a very small expense. (signed) "One of the party"

1863

Fork Klamath established in the Wood River Valley to discourage the Indians from harassing wagon trains.

1865

July 1865

Captain Franklin Sprague and 20 men are assigned the task of clearing timber and the building of an army supply road from Fork Klamath to Jacksonville, Via Annie Creek Canyon and Union Creek.

August 20, 1865

Captain F.B. Srague writes a letter to the Oregon Sentinel, in Jacksonville. FT. KLAMATH, Ogn.: it will probably be interesting to the traveling and freighting of public to know that the new wagon road connecting Fork Klamath to the Rogue River and John Day wagon road, is nearly completed and will be by the 23rd, ready for teams. Six miles further is Whitehorse Creek or Soldiers Camp - plenty of water, but no grass near the camp. Within two miles is Castle Camp, which is within half a mile of the summit. At this camp there is plenty of grass and water: the water is, however rather hard to obtain, being in a deep ravine. One mile from Castle Camp just at the foot of the mountain, on the Klamath side, and about one hundred yards to the left of the road, is a fine spring and an elegant camp in every respect. This we named, "Canyon Spring Camp". Within four miles, Spring Creek is crossed on a bridge, and within half a mile of the bridge, close to the road on the left, is a good spring of water and plenty of grass. Leaving this camp, the road approaches that follows down the banks and Anne Creek, a tributary of Wood River, and along which the traveler will see some of Nature's most beautiful works. The camp last mentioned is called Dead Wood. Within six miles from Dead Wood is Cold Run Camp, with water a few yards up the ravine, but not much grass.

The distance from Rogue River to this summit of mountain is estimated at sixteen miles, and from the summit to Fort Klamath at twenty miles, making thirty-six miles. From Jacksonville to the intersection of the Klamath Road, the distance measured a sixty-two miles, making the whole distance from Jacksonville to the Fort, ninety-eight miles, only six miles further than by Mt. McLaughlin. From Rogue River to within one hundred yards from the summit of the mountain, the road rises with a gradual elevation of probably ten inches to the rod, with but few rises. The summit is reached by a grade greater than the hill back of Jacksonville on the Applegate road. The decline on the Klamath side is so gentle that in the dark a man could scarcely tell whether he was going uphill or down. The new road will be a "hard road to travel" for awhile, as the ground is very soft, and much of the way the road is cut through dense thickets of small pines. And of course the stumps will be in the way for some time. There are however, but a few largest stumps in the road and no rocks at all. The soil is pumice stone, and when beaten down will become hard, making a road equal to a macadamized one.

Two miles and a half, in a northeastern direction, from the summit of the mountain is Oregon's famous lake, about which there is much difference of opinion as there is about "that darkey". I have not visited the lake yet but several of my men have, and they vary in their opinions of the distance to the water. One thinks it is not more than two or three hundred feet, while others say it must be six or seven hundred; one thinks a water is easily accessible, and another that he cannot be reached. I shall visit it this week and blaze a trail to it from the summit, and give you my impression of its depth, ect. I have heard of no name being given to it except "Hole in the Ground". It should have a named commensurate with its merits as a curiosity. Respectfully yours, F. B. Sprague

August 23, 1865

Two army hunters from Ft. Klamath, John Corbell and Francis Smith accidentally stumble up Crater Lake.

August 24, 1865

Lt. O.A. Stern, Capt. Sprague and party "reached the bluff overlooking the lake, west or southwest side, about 9:00 in the morning of a clear day, and for the first-time feasted our eyes upon what we then pronounced as the most beautiful and majestic body water we have ever beheld". Stearns and Peyton Ford become the first white men to reach the shores of the lake. A pistol shot by Stearns brings down Sprague and civilian Coats. Capt. Sprague suggest the name of "Lake Majesty". Phantom Ship is discovered by Captain Sprague.

Auggust 1865

The Oregon Sentinel of Jacksonville reports the visit a week or so earlier of a party or citizens to "The Great Sunken Lake" in the Cascade Mountains. It was reported that "no living man has, ever and probably never will be able to reach the water's edge". These visitors fired a rifle shot several times into the water in an attempt to ascertain the distance from the rim to the water but evidently did little other exploring. The group was probably composed of some of the visiting citizens from Jacksonville who had gone out to inspect the progress of the new Fort Klamath-Jacksonville wagon road to the view the lake.

September 3, 1865

A party eleven men from Jacksonville, guided by James D. Fay arrived on the west side of the Lake during hunting trip to Diamond Peak. Here Fay, Herman Helms and Sgt. Orson Stern find a gentler slope enabling the dissent to the water, were they inscribed their names and the date on a nearby rock. Intrigued by the topography of the Wizard Island, they resolve to return and bring a boat with which they can reach the Island and explore its slopes.

1865

Pole Bridge Creek named when it was hastily bridge device soldiers lose using Lodge Pole Pine.

Previous to 1865, supplies for Fort Klamath were carried by pack train from Jacksonville, down to Northern California, then to the Fort. Capt. Sprague was responsible for cutting a road through from Ft. Klamath to Jacksonville, but his crew did no grading. He simply cut the way for the wagons, leaving the stumps and stones that would pass under the axles. Not one cent was spent on it in the meantime, in 1886, 21 years later, the Cleetwood party with over it with an expedition bound for Crater Lake and carrying among other things, the Cleetwood, for sounding, on a wagon. (Steel)

October 9,1865

Annie Gains, for whom Annie Springs and Annie Creek are name, climbs down to Crater Lake. Miss Gains, sister-in-law to Major W. F. Rinehart, Fort Klamath commander, was a first white woman to reach the waters of the lake. Mrs. O. T. Brown, who was greater in age, lost the race by a few feet to the 19 year old girl. (Brown's Springs?) The named "Annie" was incorrectly changed to "Anna" soon after the park was established, and was changed back to 'Annie" during the 1930s. Regardless of the weather or the season, Annie Spring's flow remains constant, and the temperature of its waters always 35 degrees F. This is the coldest spring in the Park. The Indians called spring "PALALX".

1867

John Wesley Hillman leaves Oregon for Hope Villa, Louisiana. He planned to be away for all your short time, but found that the warm climate lessened the pain of his shattered knee. He had been wounded in the Rogue Indian Wars of the 1850's and the wound remained open the duration of his life.

1868

March 25, 1868

The William Steel Family leaves Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, heading for southeastern Kansas. They settle on a farm near Oswego in Labette County.

September 5, 1868

A Mr. Cowley and a Mr. Beal, of the Rogue Valley visit the Lake with Capt. Sprague. Two of the men desent to the water.

1869

July 27, 1869

The Jim Sutton party of Jacksonville brings the first wagon nearly to the Rim of Crater Lake after blazing a four and half mile trail. (Great Great Granddaughter Jackie Wobbe reports that Capt. Sutton was eventually buried in the Parnkey Cemetery on Ramsey Road near Medford.

August 5, 1869

J.B. Coats, James Fay, David Linn, James Sutton, and Lt. Thoburn set out on the Lake in a canvas boat. This is probably the first boat on the Lake. The party estimates the Lake to be 1,500 to 2,000 feet deep after taking two soundings down to 550 feet. (The length of their rope.) Crater Lake is named by James M. Sutton. At one time the prosaic name of "Hole in the Ground" was in use, but was fortunately abandon. The Indian name of the Lake was Glowy's or Gaywas. The Sutton party attempted to circumnavigate the lake, and sound it, but due to the fragile nature of the boat and a strong wind, they were forced to forego the attempt. One sounding was made a half-mile from the island. Mr. Linn built the boat, which was scow-shaped. 16 feet long and 3.5 feet wide at his plaining mill in Jacksonville, but did not put it together until reaching the Rim of Crater Lake.

The morning of the day that they made their voyage on the Lake, the men carried the boards down the rugged precipice leading to the water as there was no marked out trail. Several times, being encumbered with the boards, they were in imminent danger of losing their footing and plunging down into the Lake.

Aug. 7, 1869

The Oregon Sentinel, Saturday: We learn that a party of pleasure seekers from Rogue River Valley are now at Lake Majesty, cruising upon its blue and placid water in a boat built in Jacksonville. As it is reported that the party is partly composed of young ladies, you may well imagine that the desire to see and explore Lake Majesty has become intense.

Aug. 21, 1869

The Oregon Sentinel, Saturday: TRIP TO CREATER (sic)LAKE, To the Editor Sentinel: in response you request, I will endeavor to furnish you with a brief sketch of our late tour to the source of the Rogue River, and Fort Klamath.

On the 27th of July, memorable as the day of the great freshet in Jacksonville, our party, consisting of David Linn, wife and five children, Jas. D. Fay, Miss Anna Fay, Miss Hannah Ralls, J.B. Coats, Capt. J. M. Sutton, wife and one child, started on exploring and recuperating expedition to Crater Lake and other points of interest in its vicinity. The thermometer stood at 96 in the shade and atmosphere was unusually sultry... From our first camping point we witnessed in the distance the terrific storm which was devastating Jacksonville and terrifying its inhabitants. We could see the dark and terrible cloud which hung over are devoted town, pouring forth stream after stream of lurid lightning and heavy peals of thunder which was startling, even that are safe distance...

From this point the road was made through with thick timber and over a soft pumice stone soil, and consequently the road had been beaten down from eighteen to twenty inches, leaving some hundreds of stumps to the mile, too high for our duck legged wagons to pass over. It was these stumps that the peculiar virtues of our baggage master shone forth through the clouds of dust which surrounded him and his favorite wagon....

On the 31st we traveled all day over a very good but stumpy road. During the day we passed through several vast forest of dead timber, which had been killed by fire. Among this dead timber in many places the ground in was covered with a low whortleberry of the most delicious kind. We also passed many small brooks and springs in which waters good at 40 degrees, F., just 8 degrees above freezing, while Jacksonville stands at sixty...

We camped one mile from the summit of the Cascade Mountains and two and half miles from Crater Lake at a place known as Sprague's dug-away. At this place a trail had been graded down in the precipitous banks of Crack Creek and sufficient to past men and horse. On the next day (August 1) the order of the day was to find a "north-west passage" to Crater Lake whereby we could take our wagons and boat. We started out early in the morning, a party of self constituted road viewers. After nearly the whole day spent, we succeeded in finding a good route for a wagon road and moved our camp about one mile Lakewards where we found excellent grass and water. On the next day we cut out the road to the Lake, returned and moved camped to within half a mile of that point and in time to haul our boat to the brink of its destination. On the 3rd we took our families in wagons and soon arrived at the long wished for point. On alighting from the wagons and reached the brink, the first exclaimation of the ladies was, "lookout for the children! Come back Jimmy! Come back Peter."

In approaching the Lake from whatever direction, we had to ascend a mountain; it being located on a high point of the dividing ridge of the Cascade Mountains. From the south we gradually ascended the mountain through heavy open timber, Principally hemlock and spruce, until within 200 yards of the Lake, when we passed out of the timber into a find grassy lawn mottled with sealberry and other lower shrubs particular to higher regions. Passing up this lawn, which was little more precipice than before, we arrived at the brink of the Lake which was beautifully skirted with timber at intervals, all around its circumference. To say that this wonderful Lake is grand, beyond description, is to give an idea of its magnificence. Everyone gazes at it for the first time and almost tearful astonishment. Elevated 4,200 feet above the see we could skim the tops of the vast piles of mountains in every direction which almost a quarter of a mild beneath our feet reposed in the placid lake. From the best estimates we could make, the Lake is about six and half miles from east to west and 5 and a half from north to south and nearly oval in shape. It is entirely surrounded by walls of light colored basalt, scoria, and almost every conceivable variety of the volcanic productions. Near the west end rises a cone like island about a mile in diameter at the base and about 700 feet in height. This island is about two miles from the shore where we stood in a half-mile from the west end of the lake.

Each man now shouldered up a portion of our boat material, and after a few timid glances down the fearful incline, started boldly over the loose, crumbling bank, starting bevies of loose boulders at every step, at the imminent danger of anyone who dared venture ahead of the party. We succeeded in getting our boat to the water and afloat before night. I had forgotten to state that one lady accompanied down on this occasion, arriving at the bottom with her shoes torn entirely from her feet on sharp rocks. On getting ready to return, she made the following address to the Lake. "O, thou horrid puddle! Like a great spider, thou has hidden thyself down in this miserable hole to catch butterflies. Before I entered the thy face, you looked smooth and the distance short but I found the road long, and nothing but roughness and danger, and thou art rolling great waves at my feet! I know not whither I shall escape these villanious walls, but, I promise that if again safe that the top, I will never more trouble you with my presence; in sincerity of which I now make unto you this peace offering!" So saying, she casted her dilapidated shoes in the troubled water, and returned a barefoot, through tribulation and boulders, to the top. As it was no water for our horses, and only snow for ourselves, the returned to our last camp, for the night. During the day we were joined by Lt. S.B. Thornburn, U.S. Army from Fort Klamath, Col. Ross and H.P. Duseans and lady.

DOWN TO THE LAKE Arriving at the Lake, speedy preparation was made to go down to the water.Lieut. Thorborn, Col. Ross, David Linn, J.B. Coats, James D. Fay, J.M. Sutton, Miss Anna Fay, and Mrs. Linn and Mrs. Sutton make the decent. After the ladies had went out in the boat a few hundred yards and returned, five of us started for the island, two miles distant. One hour's hard rowing against a heavy wind, brought us to the island; forty five minutes more took us to the top of the island, where we proclaimed it to the winds that are in the 4th day of August, 1869, we, David Linn, J.D. Fay, Lieut. S.B. Thorborn, J.B. Coats and J.M. Sutton landed on the CREATER (sic) Lake Island, and then and their claimed to be the first human beings that ever set foot on its soil. This island is but it loose pile of cinders and pumice stone, crumbling down at the very touch. Around the basin-like crater is large piles of scoria ready to tumble down with the least exertion, and many, indeed, were the tons of this rock that we started down the precipice sides of the island. The rim around a crater is some five hundred yards in circumference and some one hundred feet deep, in the bottom of which remains a bank of snow. We left a bottle on the south side of the crater, sheltered beneath a ledge of lava, containing the names of all our party. Anyone curious to find it, near some blazes made with a knife on the limbs of some small trees hard by. We returned to the Lake and found the wind blowing almost a gale, and coming from every point of the compass every five minutes. We arrived safely on shore, drew our boat above high watermark, which by the way is, only about four feet, lift within a bucket of tar and four or five pounds of nails for reparing purposes, and then started on our weary way to the top, a distance of half a mile at an angle steeper than forty-five degrees. On arriving at the top, we heard the story of how the ladies got back, how the Col. climbed a rope, and many other male, and female adventures. Through the politeness of Mr. Peter Britt, I was prepared to take photographs of Lake, but owing to smoke in the atmosphere I did not succeed. We were soon underway to our camp, well repaid for all our pains, and proud of our store of adventures.

Oct. 28, 1869

The Jacksonville Sentinel reports that several citizens recently returned from visiting the great sunken lake. The walls of the lake are almost perpendicular. The depth of a water is unknown. Its surface is smooth and unruffled. It lies so far below the surface of the mountain that air currents do not affect it. Its length is 12 miles, and breadth is 10 miles. No living man has or probably in the future will ever be able to reach the waters edge. It lies silent, still and mysterious in the bosom of the "everlasting hills", like a huge well scooped by the hands of the giant genie of the mountains in ages gone by. These facts seem incredible but they are vouched by some of the most responsible citizens. Lake is certainly a most remarkable curiosity.

(Next stop 1870's)